After the breakdown of the cuban railway system at the beginning of the 90´ies you can see several improvements now. On the main routes there is a regular scheduled traffic, much or less punctual.For tourists it is normally no problem to get a ticket with seat reservation (of course billed in US-$, but still cheap). Just step in to the ticket office together with your money and passport - and ask. Normally you should be able to get a ticket for the same day, but as I know Cuba everytime I needed a ticket I asked a few days in advance.
There are 3 main routes with daily traffic, the coaches are not luxurious, but also not too worse. Remember to take a jacket, because you can expect aircondition.
A diner is only available on the route Havana - Santiago de Cuba (and back), but caution: often after one hour or so all the meals are sold out. Also tourists pay the meals with cuban pesos (12 cuban pesos, equal to 60 cent). You can also get beer and other drinks (sold in US-$). It is important to take your own spoon and fork and glasses.
At some stops en route cubans come into the train selling snacks and drinks as well.
 

Tickets you can get at the station. Most travel guides say, tourist have to go to a special place called "LADIS" (from larga distancia), but I myself got the tickets all the time from the normal ticket counter where also the Cubans got their tickets. Smaller towns like Ciego de Avila (see picture above) don´t have special counters for tourists.
The times and prices mentioned have been recorded in January 1998. Up to now nobody reported me about any changes, but I do not guarantee anything.
 
 

Timetable:

1. Havana - Santiago de Cuba ("Tren especial")

Departure Havanna - Estacion Central:      16:25
Arrival Santiago de Cuba:                          06:45 (next day)

stops in folowing cities::
Matanzas (ca. 18.30 ), Santa Clara (ca. 21:00 ), Ciego de Avila (23.15 ), Camaguey (about midnight), Las Tunas (02:30 )

2. Santiago de Cuba - Havana ("Tren especial")

Departure Santiago de Cuba                     16:35 
Arrival Havana - Estacion Central:             07:05 (next day)

stops as well in following cities::
Las Tunas (ca 19:30 ), Camaguey (ca. 23:00 ), Ciego de Avila (0:10 ), Santa Clara (ca. 2:30 ), Matanzas (ca 5:00 )
 

3. Havana - Bayamo ("Tren regular")

Departure Havana - Estacion Central:    23:20 
Arrival Bayamo:                                    13:32  (next day)

stops nearly in all town along the route

3. Bayamo - Havana ("Tren regular")

Departure Bayamo:                                  23:10 
Arrival Havana - Estacion Central:            13:20  (next day)

stops: look above.
 

5. Havana - Holguin  ("Tren regular")

Departure Havana - Estacion Central:      13:25 
Arrival  Holguin:                                       04:00 (next day)

stops: Matanzas (ca. 15:00 ), Santa Clara (ca. 17:30 ), Ciego de Avila (20:56 ), Camaguey (ca. 23:00 ),

3. Holguin - Havana ("Tren regular")

Departure  Holguin:                                  13:55
Arrival Havnna - Estacion Central:            04:55  (next day)

Zwischenstops: Camaguey (ca. 18:30 Uhr), Ciego de Avila (20:22 Uhr), Santa Clara (gegen. Mitternacht), Matanzas (ca. 2:30 Uhr)
 
 

other railway routes:

Havanna - Cienfuegos, Havanna - Pinar del Rio, Holguin - Santiago de Cuba
 
 

Prices:

Havanna - Santago de Cuba: 32 $
Havanna - Holguin : 30 $
Havanna - Ciego de Avila: 18 $
Havanna - Matanzas: 4 $
Havanna - Santa Clara: 12 $
Havanna - Pinar del Rio: 7 $
Ciego de Avila - Holguin: 11 $
Ciego de Avila - Santiago de Cuba: 18 $

as a small hint: 100 km (about 60 to 70 miles) have a value of  3 $

 

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