After the breakdown of the Cuban railway system at the beginning of the 90Žies you can see several improvements now. On the main routes there is a regular scheduled traffic, much or less punctual. For tourists it is normally no problem to get a ticket with seat reservation (of course billed in US-$, but still cheap). Just step in to the ticket office together with your money and passport - and ask. Normally you should be able to get a ticket for the same day, but as I know Cuba every time I needed a ticket I asked a few days in advance.
There are 3 main routes with daily traffic, the coaches are not luxurious, but also not too worse. Remember to take a jacket, because you can expect air-condition.
A diner is only available on the route Havana - Santiago de Cuba (and back), but caution: often after one hour or so all the meals are sold out. Also tourists pay the meals with Cuban pesos (12 Cuban pesos, equal to 60 cent). You can also get beer and other drinks (sold in US-$). It is important to take your own spoon and fork and glasses.
At some stops en route Cubans come into the train selling snacks and drinks as well.

Tickets you can get at the station. Most travel guides say, tourist have to go to a special place called "LADIS" (from larga distancia), but I myself got the tickets all the time from the normal ticket counter where also the Cubans got their tickets. Smaller towns like Ciego de Avila (see picture above) don't have special counters for tourists.
The times and prices mentioned have been recorded in January 1998. Up to now nobody reported me about any changes, but I do not guarantee anything.
 
Timetable:

1. Havana Central 18:05 -  Santiago de Cuba 06:25 runs every other day

2. Santiago de Cuba 18:00 - Havana Central 06:55 runs every other day

1 and 2 are new fast express trains with limited stops at Santa Clara and Camaguey only. The trains run with new Ex-French railways passenger cars recently obtained by the Cuban railways, If these trains reach more than half a hour late half the cost of the ticket is given back to passengers. It began to run on October 1st,2001. It seems to be now the star service in Cuba, it is highly promoted and operated as an European train, mostly on time and never cancelled.

3. Havana Central 17:00 - Moron 23:15 runs daily.

4. Moron 06:15 - Havana Central 12:30 runs daily.

3 and 4 operate with new Ex-Canadian Railways BUDD railcars recently obtained by Cuban railways, it is also an express train and the second best service in Cuba after the French train Havana-Santiago.

11/30. Havana Central 14:55 - Guantanamo 06:05 runs every other day

31/12. Guantanamo 19:55 - Havana Central 11:35 runs every other day

11. Havana Central 14:55 - Santiago de Cuba 04:50 runs the day train to Guantanamo does not run 

12. Santiago de Cuba 21:10 - Havana Central 11:35 runs the day train from Guantanamo does not run. 

13. Havana Central 20:20 - Bayamo 10:10 runs every other day.

14. Bayamo 18:50 - Havana Central 08:40 runs every other day.

13/32. Havana Central 20:20 - Manzanillo 11:35 runs the day train to Bayamo does not run.

33/14. Manzanillo 16:35 - Havana Central 08:40 runs the day train from Bayamo does not run.

15. Havana Central 21:30 - Holguin 11:30 runs every other day.

16. Holguin 19:30 - Havana Central 09:40 runs every other day.

17. Havana Central 00:15 - Sancti Spiritus 08:00 runs every other day.

18. Sancti Spiritus 21:30 - Havana Central 05:20 runs every other day.

19. Havana Central 19:15 - Cienfuegos 00:10 runs daily.

20. Cienfuegos 05:55 - Havana Central 10:35 runs daily

19 and 20 run via Matanzas with new BUDD railcars recently arrived from Canada.

21. Havana Central 07:30 - Cienfuegos 17:55 runs every other day.

22. Cienfuegos 07:00 - Havana Central 16:55 runs every other day.

21 and 22 run trough the south line via Aguada de Pasajeros.

23. Havana Central 22:35 - Pinar del Rio 04:20 runs daily.

24. Pinar del Rio 10:15 - Havana Central 16:00 runs daily.

64.  Santiago de Cuba 05:25 - Moron 16:00. Runs every other day.

64 runs from Santiago up to Ciego de Avila through the Main Line, at Ciego it takes the branch north to Moron Train.

65. Moron 05:10 - Santiago de Cuba 16:05. Runs every other day.

65 runs from Moron to Ciego through the Moron branch, at Ciego it takes the Main Line up to Santiago. 

70. Nuevitas 05:30 - Santa Clara 19:45. Runs every other day.

71. Santa Clara 05:21 - Nuevitas 19:35. Runs every other day.

70 and 71 run via Moron through the North Line Santa Clara-Nuevitas. 

Prices:

Havana - Santiago de Cuba: 32 $
Havana - Holguin : 30 $
Havana - Ciego de Avila: 18 $
Havana - Matanzas: 4 $
Havana - Santa Clara: 12 $
Havana - Pinar del Rio: 7 $
Ciego de Avila - Holguin: 11 $
Ciego de Avila - Santiago de Cuba: 18 $

as a small hint: 100 km (about 60 to 70 miles) have a value of  3 $

 

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